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Growth of the Russian perfumery market

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Despite the difficult economic situation in the country, the production of perfumery products shows a steady growth rate. The annual output dynamics has small positive y / y values, starting from January 2015. This trend continues to this day.

Russian enterprises show a steady upward trend in the production of perfumery over the past 1.5 years. According to the results of the analysis of the perfumery market, the cumulative increase in production in 2015 was 18% y / y. And the volume of production in January-June 2016 in physical terms grew by 8% y / y.

As the marketing director of OJSC AROMAT notes, the increase in the volume of production of Russian perfumery is caused by the reorientation of a part of consumers to more affordable products. At the same time, according to a study conducted by IndexBox, the perfumery market as a whole is experiencing a protracted decline.

Dynamics of perfumery production in Russia

The dynamics of the production of perfumery in value terms repeats the dynamics of production in physical terms, while having a more pronounced growth. So, for January - May 2016, the volume of production in value terms was 66% higher than y / y. According to a study conducted by IndexBox, the cost of perfumery production has increased significantly due to the use of imported raw materials in the production, which has risen in price due to devaluation.

Perfume Production

Among commodity categories, the main volume falls on toilet water: it is in 2 square meters. In 2016, more than 16 million bottles were produced, which is 84% ​​of the total production volume in physical terms, with colognes in the second place with a share of 9% in the first and second quarters, and in the third place the longest lasting and most expensive perfumes.

Key players in the Russian perfume market

At present, the market for perfumery is controlled mainly by international companies, such as UNILEVER, L'Oreal, Avon and others. Among the most important enterprises in the industry that remain in the ownership of Russian capital, one can single out AROMAT OJSC from Tatarstan, Faberlik OJSC, CJSC "New Zarya" LLC "Aroma Prom" - an enterprise for the production of perfumery products of the German-Russian holding company BROCARD GROUP, LLC "Natalie Cosmetics", etc. The most valuable and expensive types of author's perfumes are most often produced by micro-enterprises or larger players on a give-and-take basis.

The largest volume of production among all federal districts falls on the Central Federal District: in Q2. In 2016, more than 19 million bottles of perfumery were produced there, accounting for 72.1% of the total volume. In second place with a share of 18.7% is the Volga Federal District. In total, these federal districts account for 90.8% of Russian production in Q2. 2016, while in 1 square. In 2016, the same districts accounted for a total of 93.2%.

Perfumery market in Russia in 2015, 2016: production geography

According to the estimates of the head of the marketing department of OJSC AROMAT, in 2016, the perfumery market will retain its current position and no significant changes will occur as the economic situation in the country is now stabilizing.

According to IndexBox experts, the Russian market for perfumery products has now developed. It contains the majority of multinational brands, individual Russian companies, as well as many small players, mostly foreign ones. On the other hand, a certain potential for its growth remains, albeit at a slower pace. It is associated with a further increase in consumer standards and lifestyle upgrades. The current crisis in the economy has not yet taken on such a scale that a change and rollback to the habits of the 1990s will occur. According to the experts of IndexBox, certain progress can be expected after 2018.

Market figures


Virin made a reservation that all the data presented relate exclusively to the specialized shops of the market, that is, those who sell only cosmetics and perfumery.

As of the end of 2017, the market for cosmetics and perfumery was about 2.5% in terms of the number of orders and about 1.97% in money from the total volume of Russian eCommerce.

According to Virin, it is very small. This is a little more than a fairly young Russian segment of eGrocery.

Market pain

A key feature of the market, Virin believes, is its extremely weak growth, much smaller than the rest of the Russian eCommerce grows. In 2017, the number of orders in online stores specializing in cosmetics and perfumery increased by only 30%. Over the same period, the amount of online sales increased by 26%. The average check decreased by 1.2%.
"We are not yet ready to give market dynamics in 2018, but we can already say that it is even noticeably weaker than the market changed a year earlier," says Virin. Such a weak growth has one more effect, which refers not so much to specialty stores, as to all stores, in one form or another, selling cosmetics.
"We are seeing significant growth in large stores in 2018, more than 50%. For example, Wildberries this year grew by 75% year to year Ozon - by 65% ​​yoy. At the same time, the cosmetics segment in the same stores is growing weakly, "explains Virin.
That is, in the volume of sales of each store, it falls. Virin suggests that fashion-players have no interest in such a range.

The main reason for such low growth is that consumers of cosmetics move very poorly online.
"The same customers in other categories flow online much faster. We believe that perfume and cosmetics stores do not yet provide the level of service that customers need," Virin adds.

Another pain of the beauty segment is low conversion. If we consider the conversion of the number of purchases from the monthly number of visitors, then in this market it is about 4.4%. This is almost the same indicator as for mobile phones, but there such a conversion is at least understandable: for a long time, buyers choose a suitable phone model in different stores before making a purchase.

Virin believes that such a feeling that people choose cosmetics in online stores and buy with great reluctance.


Another feature of the beauty segment in traffic. The share of direct transitions to online shopping segment is lower than the average for the eCommerce market. But the share of transitions from mailings and social networks is high.
"This bar is an indicator of the health of specialty stores. It shows the proportion of people who generally know where they are going. For example, in the fashion segment, direct transitions will be even more organic search. There, the customer behavior pattern is fundamentally different, first choose Internet the store, and then they look in it what they want to buy. It would seem that in cosmetics, the behavior would have to be similar, but we don’t see it, ”says Virin. Such a model of behavior always leads to one result: a "price war" and the killing of margins in the market. This is what the beauty market can now come to, says Virin. As soon as the market comes to this, we will see a collapse.

Mobile failure


"This is a catastrophe, since the female audience aged 18 to 35 years old is the second audience in terms of mobile-onli share. Namely, this audience should seemingly buy cosmetics. The norm would be if mobile traffic in the segment would be under 80%. This is a trouble that needs to be done, "says Virin.

In addition, only a few shops have mobile apps. It is very significant that the share of App Store applications on the market is less than the share of Google Play. According to the expert, it can be concluded that perfumery shops cannot “reach out” through mobile applications to their target audience.

Market leaders

The most successful beauty shop of the Russian segment of the Internet in 2017 can be called Yves Rocher. During the year he served 703,000 orders out of 5 million made on the market. The site was visited by an average of 1,058,000 people per month.

In second place is the ranking of the largest perfume stores - L'Etoile. 630,000 orders per year and 1,238,000 visitors per month.

The third position is Rive Gauche. The store portal accepts about a million people a month, which totally made 430,000 orders per year.


Virin warns that all the numbers in this rating are preliminary, accurate figures will appear for the final release of the report.

Russians are increasingly shopping in the Internet

The main way to implement perfume in Russia is specialized perfume and cosmetic networks. According to the site Aport, Internet sales are actively growing.

Experts expect that the share of Internet sales will increase significantly in the near future, while adding that currently this method of implementation has a number of limitations. For example, a potential buyer will not be able to smell the perfume, check their durability, etc.

Now online stores that sell perfumery products are trying to experiment with an assortment to find out if Russians are ready to buy perfumes and eau de toilette using the Internet.

While in the country it is difficult to identify the largest online retailer, which would specialize in the sale of perfume or cosmetics. This year, online sales stores such as L’Etoile, Yves Rocher, Rive Gauche continue to grow.

Leading positions in terms of sales were won by three foreign companies: L’Oreal, LVMH and Procter & Gamble. The popular domestic producers of the spirits are Faberlik and Novaya Zarya, which, according to experts, are among the outsiders in the fight against foreign manufacturers.

Annotation of a scientific article on economics and economics, author of a scientific work - Nikolayeva MA, Niy A.A.

The development of the perfumery and cosmetics market is a clear indication of the level of development of the state’s economy as a whole, since only a high standard of living of the population allows to stimulate the production of high-quality and expensive perfumery and cosmetic products. Imported perfumes and cosmetics occupy 70% of the Russian market, which is a high figure for the country. The main trends in the Russian perfumery and cosmetics market include: growing consumer competence and demands, the innovativeness of perfumery and cosmetics, an increase in the share of online commerce, the redistribution of customers between segments, increased competition and a decrease in the share of direct sales, the domestic production of perfumes and cosmetics, an increase demand for multifunctional cosmetics and cosmetics designed to combat skin aging, using the concept and naturalness of cosmetics.

Text of the scientific work on the topic “Analysis of the state and trends of the perfumery and cosmetic market in Russia”

ANALYSIS OF THE CONDITION AND TENDENCIES OF THE PERFUME AND COSMETIC MARKET IN RUSSIA

Specialty: Economics and Management of National Economy Direction: Economics of Entrepreneurship

Authors: M.A. NIKOLAEVA, Doctor of Technical Sciences, Professor, Department of International Commerce, Russian Academy of National Economy and Public Administration under the President of the Russian Federation,

A.A. NII, 4th year student of the Higher School of Corporate Governance of the Russian Academy of National Economy and Public Administration under the President of the Russian Federation

The development of the perfumery and cosmetics market is a clear indication of the level of development of the state’s economy as a whole, since only a high standard of living of the population allows to stimulate the production of high-quality and expensive perfumery and cosmetic products. Imported perfumes and cosmetics occupy 70% of the Russian market, which is a high figure for the country. The main trends in the Russian perfumery and cosmetics market include: growing consumer competence and demands, the innovativeness of perfumery and cosmetics, an increase in the share of online commerce, the redistribution of customers between segments, increased competition and a decrease in the share of direct sales, the domestic production of perfumes and cosmetics, an increase demand for multifunctional cosmetics and cosmetics designed to combat skin aging, using the concept natural cosmetics.

It makes it possible to stimulate the production of hair and hair. It takes 70% of the Russian market, which is high for the country. Consumer health care products There is a need to make up your skin.

Key words: market, perfumery and cosmetic products, market conditions, market trends, market development rates, product promotion, distribution channels, cost competition, product certification, innovation.

Keywords: market trends, product promotion, distribution channels, product certification, innovation.

The development of the perfumery and cosmetics market is a clear indication of the level of development of the state’s economy as a whole, since only a high standard of living of the population allows to stimulate the production of high-quality and expensive perfumery and cosmetic products. The average market development rate in Russia is 10-15%, which indicates its intensity of development. Imported perfumes and cosmetics occupy 70% of the Russian market, which is a high figure for the country. The modern Russian market of perfumery products is among the ten largest markets in Europe. According to experts, the potential capacity of the cosmetic market in Russia is about 15-18 million euros. However, this level will be reached only in 2017-2018.

Even despite some economic difficulties, ruble depreciation and sanctions, the cosmetic market continues to grow, but at a lower rate. This is due to the psychological factor: in difficult times, people want to look better, thus showing that everything will be fine. The Russian cosmetics market is in sixth place in terms of sales of perfumes and cosmetics, after countries such as France, Germany, the United Kingdom, Spain and Italy. According to Re: Sale Expert in Russia, in the first half of 2016, the market for personal care products showed a 2.3 percent increase in sales in kind and 9.9 in money terms. Among the categories of personal care products, facial cleansing and skin care products increased by 18% in real terms, which shows the greatest growth. At the same time, multinational companies are losing their market share, while domestic companies and private labels increase sales. According to the Federal Customs Service, imports of perfumery and cosmetic products from foreign countries in August 2016 increased by 19.8%. Among distribution channels of personal care products, only hypermarkets and supermarkets show growth, while perfume and hardware stores sales are falling.

Research by marketing agency DISCOVERY Research Group showed that in the first half of 2016, the market volume of perfumes and cosmetics amounted to 169.3 billion rubles. Market size

perfumery at the same time amounted to 34.5 billion rubles. Magnet Cosmetics is the absolute leader in the number of stores: approximately 1,000 stores belong to this perfumery and cosmetics network. The second place is occupied by the network L'Etoile - about 900 stores in the territory of the Russian Federation, then Yves Rocher follows with a large margin - about 300 stores of the network.

In addition to dependence on the exchange rate, the Russian market of cosmetics and perfumery has another feature - it is constantly changing and is closely connected with the fashion world, dependent on fashion trends and seasonal fluctuations. The main trends in the Russian perfumery and cosmetics market include: growing consumer competence and demands, the innovativeness of perfumery and cosmetics, an increase in the share of online commerce, the redistribution of customers between segments, increased competition and a decrease in the share of direct sales, the domestic production of perfumes and cosmetics, an increase demand for multifunctional cosmetics and cosmetics designed to combat skin aging, using the concept natural cosmetics.

One of the trends is to increase the level of competence and consumer demands. On the one hand, the buyer began a more pragmatic and practical approach to the selection of perfumes and cosmetics. Наиболее важным критерием в современных экономических условиях в России является соотношение «цена - качество» . Однако узнаваемость бренда также имеет большое влияние на поведение покупателей. С другой стороны, по мере насыщения рынка косметики и парфюмерии потребитель становится всё более информированным, что не только усложняет работу продавцов-консультантов, но и требует от них хорошего знания реализации товаров.

Нужно отметить, что ориентация на инновационную парфюмерно-косметическую продукцию - важная черта современного рынка. Manufacturers are trying to invest in innovation to create a unique selling proposition, and compositions and recipes are becoming more complex, including more and more effective ingredients. At present, the state policy of innovative development of the domestic industry has been announced in Russia. In accordance with the objectives of the Pharma-2020 Development Strategy, over a ten-year period, it is necessary to increase the share of domestically produced products by 2020 to 50%, and the share of innovative products in the enterprise portfolios to 60%. Such areas of innovative cosmetics as cellular cosmetics, oxygen cosmetics, cosmetics with nanoparticles and information cosmetics deserve the most attention. A feature of cellular cosmetics is the use of

the composition of the production of cells or cell extracts that are in a state of rapid growth. To create such products you need not only deep knowledge in the field of molecular biology and biochemistry, but also a lot of experience, specific equipment and technology. In turn, oxygen cosmetics is distinguished by its properties. In particular, it delivers molecular oxygen to the skin or contains compounds that, when in contact with the skin, release atomic oxygen. However, a number of manufacturers believe that these drugs simply activate metabolic processes in tissues and increase the oxygen consumption of cells. In nanocosmetics, special molecules are used that penetrate deep into the skin layers. Its technology is such that it excludes the presence of dyes and preservatives in the composition of products. The youngest direction in innovative cosmetics is informational cosmetics, which is based on the use of ribonucleic acid. As a result, the regenerative processes of the skin are activated [1, 2, 5].

Today, the domestic market of perfumery and cosmetics is moving towards e-commerce. The share of online sales in the total volume of the cosmetics market is about 4%. In the period from 2013 to 2015, there has been a steady growth in the interest of the Internet audience of the Russian Federation in this segment. Contribute to the promotion of online as a sales channel, various social networks and beauty bloggers who personally test products and write articles or record video reports about it.

The trend in the perfumery and cosmetics market in Russia is also the redistribution of consumers between its segments. Demand is gradually shifting in the direction of the mass market, the Republic of Korea keeps leadership in this direction. The products of this country of origin are distinguished by the ratio "price-quality" and attractive packaging. Today, those who are accustomed to the average market prices for cosmetic and perfumery products, go to a low price segment. At the same time, there is a paradox in the consumption of perfumes and cosmetics: the Russians do not save on beauty. Russian consumers often use the products of luxury brands, and the cost of expensive perfumes and cosmetics often do not correspond to the level of their income. The growth of this market segment is achieved not only thanks to consumers with a high level of income, but also to those whose wages are below even the average level. Thus, the segment of the market of the average price level is being eroded.

There is a tendency of transition of domestic companies, previously specialized mainly in the production of cheap perfumes, in the middle segment of the perfumery market. The peculiarity of domestic

the market of perfumery is the production of "nominal" products, i.e. Companies strengthen their positions in the segment of selective perfumery. The annual growth of the market for “registered” perfumery brands in the Russian Federation is 20%, while the industry-wide index is 15%.

Perfume and cosmetics market in Russia maintains a growth trend, but at a lower rate. Manufacturers and importers instantly react to economic and political changes in the country, work closely with large retail chains and distributors, which in turn attract buyers with their shares, loyalty programs, and flexible discount systems and bonuses. The “drugstore” format is promising, when perfumery and cosmetic products are sold through pharmacy chains. Medical cosmetics (kosmocetika) inspires more confidence in customers, especially if implemented through pharmacies. Consumers are sure that it is here that the quality assurance, proper storage conditions, professional advice of specialists are provided [5, 6].

It is becoming more and more difficult to attract the attention of potential buyers; therefore, trade organizations are forced to resort to the use of integrated marketing communications, which are the most effective way of conveying information to the consumer and solving marketing, PR and advertising tasks.

Against the background of political events and the economic crisis in the country, the products of Russian manufacturers, which cooperate with Western perfumers and designers, use modern equipment and technologies, have become more popular. There is also an opinion that in its composition it has more natural components. Attention is also required by the fact of the gradual penetration of Russian firms into the world market, which consists in opening in the territory of foreign countries the company stores of Russian manufacturers. Increasing the competitiveness of perfumes and cosmetics is due to the fact that many manufacturers are constantly improving the quality of their products, and prices are falling due to the depreciation of the ruble.

Products that perform several functions are used in particular demand, including combating skin aging. Leading manufacturers produce a product that not only improves the appearance, but also cares for the skin, protects against UV rays. If earlier emphasis was placed on products that allow the restoration of faded skin, now the means for the prevention of aging dominate, which are increasingly targeted to younger buyers.

At this stage of development of the perfumery and cosmetic market, the course has been laid towards the development of the segment of organic goods,

because Russian consumers are increasingly critical of the composition of cosmetics. The eco-cosmetics industry builds its relationship with customers solely on the basis of trust and understanding, providing them with a complete description of all the ingredients of the product. Such a policy of openness undoubtedly attracts people. It should be noted that this segment of organic products has been successfully mastered by Russian producers who have every chance to defend their market share. The leader is the Russian brand Natura Siberica. Due to the trend of using natural organic cosmetics according to a report by Future Market Insights (FMI), the most common ingredient in cosmetics in 2016 is aloe vera. It is assumed that in 2026 the total cost of raw materials will reach 3.3 million dollars.

In modern cosmetology, the main criterion for organic cosmetics is certification in one of the certification companies located throughout the world: BDIH, ECOCERT (ECOSERT), COSMEBIO, COSMOS STANDART, NSF (ANSI 305), ICEA (ICEA ECO BIO COSMETIC), Ntrue (NATRUE- Label), SOIL ASSOCIATION, OASIS (Organic and Sustainable Industry Standards), Vegan Society, USDA (NOP), The Natural Products Association.

Each of these companies has its own requirements for organic cosmetics, but there are some general standards that unite any cosmetic product that has a certificate of organic cosmetics. There are no standards in Russia regulating the composition and production of organic cosmetics. Therefore, undergoing voluntary eco-certification, manufacturers achieve greater customer confidence in their products.

The economic crisis in Russia, the sanctions and the fall in the ruble exchange rate did not significantly affect the cosmetic market, but provoked its further development. Domestic companies demonstrate modern marketing and development approach, offer excellent packaging and decent product quality, and the tendency of Russian consumer culture to develop has been actively developed. In general, it can be noted that the perfumery and cosmetic market in Russia is one of the most dynamically developing and promising.

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2. Vakhteeva D.A. Features of the Russian market of cosmetics // Young scientist [Electronic resource]. - 2015. - № 21 (101). - p. 367369. - Mode of access: Мр: //еэпЬгагу.ш/^ash^? 1ё = 24860485 (10.20.2016).

3. Krivdina O.A. Actualization of modern approaches to the segmentation of the perfumery and cosmetic market // Modern trends in economics and management [Electronic resource]: Materials of the international scientific-practical conference. Kursk Institute of Cooperation. - 2016. - p. 215-219. - Access mode: Mr: //ePbgagu.gi/yet.aBr? 1ё = 26097385 (10/20/2016).

4. Krivonos E.A., Baranova I.V. The current state of the market of perfumery and cosmetic products of Russia // New Science: The current state and ways of development [Electronic resource]. - 2016. -№ 4-1. - p. 152-154. - Access mode: Mr: //ePbgagu.gy/yet.aBr? 1ё = 25780869 (10/20/2016).

5. Kuzyakova L.M., Umnova O.A., Butova O.A. Analysis of the modern market of perfumery and cosmetic products and features of the forms of its promotion in the market // Proceedings of the All-Russian Research Institute for Sheep and Goat Breeding [Electronic resource]. - 2013. -T. 3. - № 6. - p. 389-392. - Access mode: Mr: //ePbgagu.gi/yet.aBr? 1ё = 20350798 (10/20/2016).

6. Fadeeva, T.P., Monakov, Yu.I. Trends in changes in the structure of the market of perfumery and cosmetic products in Russia // Economy and management in the XXI century: development trends [Electronic resource]. - 2016. - № 29. -С. 119-123. - Access mode: Mr: //ePbgagu.gi/yesh.avr? 1ё = 26294554 (10/20/2016).

7. Berezina E. Demand for business in the beauty industry is growing // Rossiyskaya gazeta [Electronic resource]: Federal issue. - No. 7090 (222). -Access Mode: Yf8: //www.gi2016/10/02/8/rgo8-pa-eiai1uY7pev-u2016-2oyoyuyugoBu-ShSh-lyaa.Yt! (10/20/2016).

8. Janitors A. Marketing perfumery and cosmetic services in Russia // FINAM [Electronic resource]. - Access mode: I11r: //11pash.1p10/pesh5/shagke11p ^-rag1uishg ^ 1o-koven 11sBe5k1b-51 and ^ -ugo5511/ (10.20.2016).

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Perfumery and cosmetics market in Russia

Perfume and cosmetics market in Russia is one of the most developing in the world. The rate of growth on average is 10-15%. This is one of the largest consumer markets in Europe. However, despite the rapid development of the perfume and cosmetics market in Russia, there are certain difficulties in obtaining any information on the state of affairs in this area.

The rapid growth of the perfume and cosmetics market in Russia over the past 3-4 years is justified primarily by the fact that in 70-90. This area of ​​the market has experienced a deep decline. Once the journalist Andrei Dushiy in an article in the magazine "Consumer" No. 7'2001 wrote: "Alas, the Russian market today resembles a half-empty theater, where the" actors "- both domestic and foreign firms - play a good play that no one can watch."

In other words, no matter how our manufacturers try to reduce prices, the overwhelming majority of the Russian population cannot afford to buy high-quality cosmetics, perfumery and even hygiene products. ” Today, the times have changed, but despite the fact that the market is rather quickly saturated with supply, the prospects for its development will remain for a long time. Anna Dycheva-Smirnova, Vice-President of EMG “Old Fortress”, told in an interview with a representative of the daily news publication RosBusinessConsulting (RBC) that the situation in the market of perfumery-cosmetic products in large cities is generally similar. Higher, in comparison with small cities, the solvency of the population and developed infrastructure create a favorable market situation, however, the potential of small cities is largely underestimated. According to Anna Smirnova, the market is large enough and the development of this area is very promising. The development of the market is also promoted by the fact that Russians are the most active consumers of perfumery and cosmetic products, they are more than Western consumers, ready to spend a large share of their income on such products. Many analysts say that today the Russian perfumery and cosmetics market is extremely attractive for foreigners. Moscow is becoming a “window to Russia” for western companies. What is happening in the capital now, in a few years will be repeated in other cities of the country. According to Anna Smirnova, the perfumery and cosmetics market growth in 2009 will be at least 5% (by comparison, well-established European markets are growing by 2–4% per year), and the entire potential market volume in a few years could reach $ 14–16 billion USA.

According to analysts, one of the most promising areas for the development of the perfumery and cosmetics market in Russia today is luxury cosmetics and luxury cosmetics, including cosmetics and selective cosmetics, children's cosmetics, cosmetics for men, anti-age cosmetics, SPA- cosmetics and SPF-cosmetics. Only in 2007, the market of selective cosmetics grew by more than 19% and amounted to 1 billion 240 million dollars, in 2005 - another 18%. The market for men's cosmetics, depending on the class of cosmetics, annually grows in Russia by 7-19%. The segment of children's cosmetics in 2006 grew by 8–9% and amounted to $ 117 million compared to 2008, and in 2008 already $ 127.5 million. The market for anti-aging cosmetics - while small in volume, is, according to analysts, the most promising. In 2007, this market has already grown by 17.7% to $ 43.2 million, and in 2008 its growth was more than 15%. The market of our cosmetics last few years has developed quite successfully. The implementation of cosmetics for skin care and hygiene products, including the bathhouse, through pharmacy chains, achieved great success. According to analysts, in the future, pharmacy chains will outpace the growth of other sales channels. Currently, the share of specialized pharmacy chains, such as Pharmacy Chain 36'6 °, is more than 20% of the Russian market and more than a third - Moscow.

Another direction in the development of the perfumery and cosmetics market in Russia, according to experts, is the promotion to the market of “personalized” perfumery from famous politicians, stars of television and show business. So, for example, the sales volume of Zhirinovsky toilet water in the 2005-2006 season. It was estimated by analysts at $ 4-5 million. The first personalized perfume brands appeared in Russia in the mid-1990s, when the French company Sogo began producing Alla perfumes from singer Alla Pugacheva. Currently, such brands as Angelica Varum, Marussia by V. Zaitsev, Larisa Dolina, Mayan cologne by Yu. Luzhkov, Valentin Yudashkin, toilet toilet are in the segment of registered perfumery brands in Russia and joint production. water “Maria Sharapova” (edition 2005), “de Leri” from singer Valeria and others.

All over the world, registered brands are now developing in all areas of the consumer market. At present, the annual growth of the market for registered perfumery brands in the Russian Federation is 20%, ahead of the industry-wide index of 15%. There is a high probability of success of the development of the “nominal”, brand, directions in color cosmetics and fashion (clothing, watches, accessories).

The development of “nominal” (brand) cosmetics and perfumes and become even more relevant due to the increase in consumer demand for new items. Now the half of the turnover of the stores is done at the expense of new products - this situation has developed all over the world. Fashion trends in the world of fragrances, as in clothing, are very different now. At the same time, our customers have certain priorities in smells. More often, these are young people under 30 who have no aristocratic habits, and they prefer new, dynamic, fresh smells, stylish and fashionable. For example, the Gucci House is now very popular, and all the smells of this brand that go out immediately fall into the bestsellers. An important factor for today's customer is packaging. For example, samples of Casual Friday, the fragrance itself is very good, but the packaging is made of tubular cardboard and looks like a box for slides. Today it is too simplified concept. Luxury perfumery and luxury perfumery should be a gift option - packaging made from high-quality cardboard, it should be beautiful, for example gold, inscriptions. For the buyer also, advertising matters, not only advertising in the Russian press, but also world advertising. Поскольку они путешествуют, очень многие читают зарубежные журналы Voque, Elle, Marie Claire и др. в оригинале. Реальность нашего времени - аромат приходит к нам в Россию раньше, чем в другие страны. Сейчас уже бывает, что новинки появляются сначала на российском рынке, а потом на французском, например, Oblique от Givenchy. Это, как правило, экспериментальные ароматы, которые, прежде всего запускают на американском рынке или в Азии, а теперь и в России, чтобы посмотреть, как воспримут не только сам запах, но и его рекламный образ. Компании апробируют новинки, чтобы во Франции не сделать ошибки.

Another sales feature has emerged - small-volume bottles are sold much faster than large ones. In men's perfume 50 ml eau de toilette is bought either slightly better, or on a par with 30 ml. In the female volume of 30 ml - this is the most popular position in the initial period of sales. Bath line with a standard order takes no more than 20%. First, they buy a small amount and do not buy the bathhouse line, not because they do not like the fragrance, but because they want to “analyze” the fragrance. When one or two months pass and the smell becomes “accepted”, the share of sales of large volumes of bottles increases, when a gain in price is seen. The period of the smell is called the socialization of flavor, and in the current conditions, for new items, it takes about two months. Although this period is often reduced with us, because the fragrance has already passed in the West, and by the time they enter the Russian market, these smells are already known to our customers. Gradually, "our" customers receive a "culture" of consumption. The overwhelming majority of buyers are actively using electronic and print media to get acquainted with the new products of the market, consult with experts, visit specialized Internet resources and beauty salons.

Among the successful manufacturers of cosmetics and perfumes, including the "nominal" perfume, can be identified:

· Concern "Kalina", which was engaged in the release of toilet water "Angelica Varum", a series of cosmetics for skin care "Black Pearl", anti-aging cosmetics "Pure Line", children's cosmetics "Little Fairy",

· “Novaya Zarya”, an enterprise that today produces the popular series “Kuznetsky Most”,

· NIZAR, a Russian company, a pioneer and recognized leader in the field of scientific research and production of the widest range of cosmetic products, SPA cosmetics, liposomal cosmetics (series Helix), cosmetics using silver ions, as well as high-tech products for cosmetics. Using their own scientific developments, they have created a wide range of unique cosmetic products - from the famous cosmetic series based on perfluorocarbons of the Blue Blood line to elite cosmetics lines (in particular, decaroline), which have already earned high recognition in the world. The company has developed unique cosmetic intermediates, such as nasaspheres® and nisasilk®, which are widely used in the production of cosmetics. The newest development is anti-aging cosmetics “decaroline” based on aqua-mineral thermal water from Karlovy Vary geyser sources.

· "Cosmetics XXI" (2003) trade and production holding. Main areas: contract manufacturing of cosmetic products, mainly the development of "Nizar Laboratory" and the creation of conditions for distribution in the regions.

· “NNIKOFF” (2004) is engaged in the creation and promotion of nominal brands, fragrances from “stars”. The company’s portfolio includes such brands as Zhirinovsky, Rayfl, Fujiyama, Monti, Darwin and others. Art-Visage (1997), the company develops and produces Russian decorative cosmetics , distinguished by its high resistance, pigment intensity and versatility. Art-Visage TM cosmetics are made on the basis of technologies and raw materials supplied by the leaders of the world cosmetic market, technical equipment from the Italian company “Ve. Tra. Co. Srl.

Strengthening the positions of these manufacturers is certainly achieved through the implementation of the results of scientific research and product quality. Companies are a regular participant of prestigious specialized exhibitions of cosmetics and perfumery “InterCHARM”, “InterCHARM professional”, “WorldParfum”, “Consumexpo” and others. There is a growing trend in consumer preferences regarding domestic cosmetic products. However, the strengthening of these positions in the future may depend on the quality of the design of the proposed products, or simply on advertising support, carried out taking into account the preferences of potential consumers. According to the marketing research of EMG “Old Fortress”, the situation on the market has already begun to change not in favor of the Russian manufacturer. This is due to the fact that prices for products of Russian enterprises are rising, while prices for products of western production, on the contrary, are falling. The volume of sales of large stores has increased so much that it allows companies to directly enter into contracts with foreign manufacturers. The absence of intermediaries and distributors has significantly reduced the purchase price of products. In addition, increased competition between domestic and foreign firms resulted in the opening of large Western companies of their own industries (for example, Frenchi cosmetics) or representative offices in our country. At the same time, their number increased significantly due to the arrival of new players, among them the famous French network Sephora, which opened a network of stores in Moscow and St. Petersburg. They claim to be market leaders and pharmacies, which are becoming increasingly popular in terms of the distribution of care products and hygiene products. In the future, experts predict "Old Fortress", they will outpace the growth of other distribution channels, annually increasing this figure by 20-25%. The competition between domestic and Western manufacturers of perfumes and cosmetics is increasing. One of the main events of last year was the launch of the Avon factory located near Moscow. And even the traditional advantage of Russian cosmetics - the low price - is starting to get lost. Such indicators as the importance of a trademark (from English - trade mark ™), the quality of product design, the brand name itself (brand-name), helping the buyer to select products from a number of equally competing brands, have come to the fore. Now companies have to ensure that their name is a logical identification of the direction of the products offered. A few years ago, few of us thought that brands could fight for the right to identify the notion of a product being offered. Today, such battles surprise no one, especially in those industries that are saturated with competing companies. And when the industry or any production only gets on its feet - brand promotion in such conditions automatically implies "promotion" of the market segment itself.

Among the main trends in the development of the market, it is possible to single out not only an increase in the number of niche brands, but also a change in marketing strategies and attitudes towards customers. It seems that the manufacturers of cosmetics have set themselves the goal to discourage customers from dermatologists and beauty salons.

Civilized retail continues to strengthen its position. Following the results of 2006-2008. the number of sales of perfumery and cosmetic products in Russia accounted for the largest department stores - 29% of the total volume and specialized networks - 23.7%. About 80% of the specialized retail sale of cosmetics and perfumes in Russia is controlled by its main magnates - Arbat Prestige, L'Etoile, Douglas-Rivoli.

Analysis of perfumery goods in the shops of Kirov

In the city of Kirov at the moment there are four main sellers of perfumery products:

In each of the stores represented a wide range of perfumery products.

Rating stores among buyers (in the survey participated 50 people aged from 16 to 50 years).

This alignment of forces is explained by the fact that the stores of Saint and Perfume on the Kirov market are relatively longer than the stores of the network L'Etoile (Sefora).

But the chain of stores L Etoile is gaining momentum in the Kirov market, according to survey data. The network often holds promotions, discounts up to 50%. Although the next study reveals how much pricing differs in these three different store chains.

The price of stores for Max Mara Silk Toch perfume water (as of January 2009).

Analysis of perfumery goods in the city of Kirov. The survey involved 50 people of different age groups from 16 to 50 years.

1. What brand of perfume water do you prefer?

2. How much are you willing to spend on perfume water?

3. What is the most important criterion when choosing perfumes?

4. You are more attracted to the aromas ...

5. Do you have several flavors or use one fragrance?

6. Do you participate in promotions held in perfume stores?

7. How often do you buy perfumes?

- As far as use

Data processing questionnaire:

1. Perfumery water, which brand do you prefer?

How much are you willing to spend on perfume water?

2. What is the most important criterion when choosing perfumes?

3. You are more attracted to the aromas ...

4. Do you have several flavors or use one fragrance?

5. Do you participate in promotions held in perfume stores?

6. How often do you buy perfumes?

Analysis of the data showed that the most popular perfumery products among the Kirov buyer are inexpensive perfumery products mostly from 500 to 1500 rubles, such as, for example, Mexx and Max Mara.

The main selection criteria are quality indicators of perfumery such as durability, aroma and brand.

The most popular perfume waters of the fantasy direction.

Consumers with interest participate in promotions held by stores.

Acquisition of perfumery water mainly occurs as it is used.

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